J. L. Zatz, "The Quality of Skin Care Products and their Ingredients", Ostomy/Wound Management, 47(2), 22-33 (2001)

Abstract:

Several ingredients used in skin products have been criticized as being excessively harsh, allergenic, or otherwise unsuitable for use, especially in the elderly population. Preservatives, in particular, have been condemned, leading to a proliferation of "preservative-free" products. Other descriptive/promotional phrases with negative connotations are "fragrance-free" and "emulsifier-free." Inferences regarding these designations might suggest that preservatives, fragrances, emulsifiers, and a number of other ingredients serve no important function, are superfluous in terms of product quality, and, therefore, should be left out of all skin products. While this is obviously not the case, neither is the obverse. Ingredients used in skin care products should be carefully chosen to support or maintain the overall effectiveness and utility of the product, and the concentration of such ingredients should be given careful consideration. After briefly reviewing skin structure and changes that occur during aging, this article examines the concept of product quality. Major nondrug ingredient categories will be addressed, including the reasons for using such ingredients in skin care products, the products in which they are required, the limitations and choices available within each category, and guidelines for product selection.

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